After some forty years of banking and investments, I retired in 2001. But since I do not golf, I soon found retirement to be very boring. So I decided to return to the investment world after ten months. However, those ten months were not a complete waste of time, for I had spent them in trying to utilize my forty years of investment experience to gain perspective on the most recent stock market "bubble" and subsequent "crash."
There were several people who saw the stock market crash coming, but they had different ideas as to when it would occur. Those who were too early had to suffer the derision of their peers. It was difficult to take a stand when so many were proclaiming that we were in a "new era" of investing and that the old rules no longer applied. Since the beginning of 1998 through the market high of March 2000, among 8,000 stock recommendations by Wall Street analysts, only 29 recommended "sell."
I am on record as having called for a cautious approach to investment two years before the "Crash of 2000." In an in-house investment newsletter dated April 1998, I have a picture of the "Titanic" with the caption: "Does anyone see any icebergs?"
When I resumed employment in 2002, I happened to glance at the chart on the last page of Value Line, which showed the stock market as having topped out, by coincidence, in April 1998, the same date as my "Titanic" newsletter! The Value Line Composite Index reached a high of 508.39 on April 21, 1998 and has been lower EVER SINCE! But on the first page of the same issue, the date of the market high was given as "5-22-01"! When I contacted Value Line about this discrepancy , I was surprised to learn that they had changed their method of computing the index for "market highs" from "geometric" to "arithmetic." They said they would change the name of the Value Line "Composite" Index to the Value Line "Geometric" Index, since that is how it has been computed over the years. Currently Value Line is showing a recent market low on 10-9-02 and the most recent market high, based on this new "arithmetic" index, on 4-5-04,
ANOTHER ALL-TIME HIGH! If they had stayed with the original "geometric" index, the all-time high would still be April 21, 1998!
Later that year, I was pleasantly surprised to read in "Barron's" an interview with Ned Davis, of Ned Davis Research, that said that his indicators had picked up on the bear market's beginnings in April 1998, the same date as my "Titanic" newsletter! So, my instincts were correct! I believe that we are in a "secular" downturn that began in April 1998 and the "Bubble of 2000" was a market rally in what was already a long-term bear market.
Another development transpired soon after I resumed employment in 2002. I happened to notice one day that, in its "Market Laboratory," "Barron's" had inexplicably changed the P/E Ratio of the S&P 500 to 28.57 from 40.03 the previous week! This was due to a change to "operating" earnings of $39.28 from "net" or "reported " earnings of $28.31 the previous week. I and others wrote to "Barron's Mailbag" to complain about this change and to disagree with it, since these new P/E ratios could not be compared with historical P/Es. "Barron's apparently accepted our arguments and, about two months later, changed back to using "reported" earnings instead of "operating" earnings and revised the S&P 500 data to show a P/E Ratio of 45.09 compared to a previous week's 29.64.
But a similar problem occurred the next day in a sister publication to "Barron's." On April 9, 2002, "The Wall Street Journal" came out with a new format that included, for the first time, charts and data for the Nasdaq Composite, S&P 500 Index and Russell 2000, in addition to its own three Dow Jones indices. The P/E Ratio for the S&P 500 was given as 26, instead of the 45.09 now found in "Barron's." I wrote to the WSJ and after much correspondence back and forth, they finally accepted my argument and on July 29, 2002 changed the P/E Ratio for the S&P 500 from 19 to 30! I had given them examples showing where some financial writers had inadvertently confused "apples" with "oranges" by comparing their P/E of 19, based on "operating" earnings, with the long-term average P/E of 16, based on "reported" earnings.
Because I started to be cautious about investing as early as April 1998, since I thought that price/earnings ratios for the stock market were perilously high, I was not hurt personally by the "Crash of 2000" and had tried to get my clients into less aggressive and more liquid positions in their investment portfolios. But the pressures to go along with the market were tremendous!
Price/earnings ratios do not enable us to "time the market." But comparing them to past historical performance does enable us to tell when a stock market is high and vulnerable to eventual correction, even though others around us may have lost their bearings. High P/Es alert us to a need for caution and a conservative approach in our investment decisions, such as a renewed emphasis on dividends. Very high P/Es usually indicate a long-term bear market may ensue for a very long period of time. We are apparently in such a long-term bear market now. But in determining whether the market is high, we must be vigilant with regard to what data mambers of the financial press are reporting to us, so we can compare "apples" with "apples." When the financial information does not appear to be correct, we, as financial analysts, owe it to the investment community to challenge such information. That is what I have concluded from my personal "odyssey" in the investment world.
After three years of the DJIA and the S&P 500 closing below their previous year-end figures, the market finally closed higher at the end of 2003. But the P/E ratio is still high for both indices.
Does anyone see any icebergs?
Henry V. Janoski, MBA, CFA, CSA is a 1955 graduate 'magna cum laude" of Yale University and a member of Phi Beta Kappa. He received his MBA in finance and banking from the Wharton Graduate Business School of the University of Pennsylvania in 1960 and holds the professional designations of Chartered Financial Analyst (CFA) and Certified Senior Advisor (CSA). As a registered investment advisor representative with the title of Senior Investment Officer, he is located in Scranton, PA. His biography is listed in "Who's Who in Finance and Industry" and in "Who's Who in America." E-mail address: HJanoski@aol.com
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Thursday, February 28, 2008
INVESTING IN THE STOCK MARKET - WHEN TO!
Is really not as important as to how you invest in the stock market. And how you invest in the stock market should take into consideration what goals you are setting for that stock market investment.
For example, are you investing for capital appreciation or for income through dividend paying stocks? Or is the investment in the stock market for the combination of both capital appreciation and dividend income?
Are you investing through a Mutual fund(s) or selecting your own individual stocks?
Do you invest with a lump-sum dollar amount or dollar-cost average into your stock or Mutual fund positions (buying the same stock or Mutual fund at different prices over the years)?
Is your investment dollar spread too thin and are all of those dollars working for your ROI (return on investment)?
Do you pay commission fees to purchase a stock?
Do you pay load fees in your Mutual fund(s)? How much does your Mutual fund(s) charge you for management, operating and marketing fees (they are called 'hidden fees')?
'How' you invest in the stock market is more important than 'when' you invest in the stock market and 'how' you invest will determine your ROI.
When you invest in the stock market is after you devise a how-to plan that takes into consideration all of the factors above. Quite frankly, every cent of your investor dollar should benefit you and your family and no one else.
It is my opinion that all stock purchases should be made without commission fees (which is possible). That the investment in all stocks should be a long-term investment, and that every stock purchased should have a history of raising their dividend every year. And all dividends should be reinvested back into the company's shares (also commission free), until retirement.
By purchasing those companies that have a long-term history of raising their dividend each year (for example, Comerica ? 35 years, Proctor and Gamble ? 47 years, BB&T ? 32 years, GE ? 28 years, Atmos Energy - 17 years (they also provide a 3% discount on all shares purchased through dividend reinvestments), the 'HOW' you invest becomes automatic- you dollar-cost average into your holdings through the dividends provided by the companies every quarter.
The dividend is the one factor a company cannot 'fudge'.
The money has to be there to pay the shareholder. If a company can raise their dividend every year, the company MUST be doing something right! When a company has a long history of raising their dividend every year you in a sense eliminate risk, since a lower stock price for that company just means a higher dividend yield. If, for example, a stock purchased at $50.00 a share drops to $36.00 a share, the income provided by the dividend income accelerates, and your dividend reinvestment provides you a better dividend 'bang for your buck'.
There have been many up and downs in the stock market these past 47 years (I know, I've been in almost 40 of them) ? yet Proctor and Gamble has never failed to raise their dividend during those past 47 years.
Below is an example of two types of investors that have $10,000 to invest in the stock market. One is a lump-sum investor, the other a dollar-cost averaging investor. One investor doesn't care about dividends, the dollar-cost averaging investor does.
Each investor took a different 'HOW' to invest and both investors had the same 'WHEN' when they invested. Let's say they invested at the same time, each stock purchased at $50 dollars a share and every quarter the stock dropped $2.00 a share, till the stocks hit a bottom of $36.00, and then recovers back to $50.00.
The lump-sum investor bought the fictitious company ABC, which does not pay a dividend, and the dollar-cost averaging investor purchased the fictitious company XYZ, which pays a quarterly dividend of 50 cents a share (a 4.0% yearly dividend yield), and the company had a history of raising their dividend every March for the past 41 consecutive years. Both purchases were made in January.
The lump sum investor bought 200 shares of ABC at $50.00 a share, watched the stock drop to $36.00, then recover back to $50.00 and when all was said and done ended up right where he started with 200 shares of ABC worth $10,000.
The dollar-cost averaging investor purchased 100 shares of XYZ in January for $5,000.00, (the stock paying a quarterly 50 cent a share dividend for a 4.0 percent yearly dividend yield), and purchased $1,000.00 worth of more shares every quarter for the next 5 quarters. Each quarter the dividend from the company was also reinvested into more shares of stock. Each March the company raised its dividend 2 cents a share, marking 45 consecutive years of rising dividends.
All purchases were commission free.
January, 100 shares of XYZ @ 50.00 a share = $5,000
Date: Stock Price: Div. Purchases: Share Purchases:
March $48.00 @.52 = 1.083 $1,000 = 20.83 shares
June $46.00 @.52 = 1.378 $1,000 = 21.74 shares
Sept $44.00 @.52 = 1.714 $1,000 = 22.72 shares Dec. $42.00 @.52 = 2.098 $1,000 = 23.81 shares March $40.00 @.54 = 2.098 $1,000 = 25.00 shares
June $38.00 @.54 = 2.637 - 0 - Sept $36.00 @.54 = 3.169 - 0 - Dec. $38.00 @.54 = 3.393 - 0 - March $40.00 @.56 = 3.260 - 0 - June $42.00 @.56 = 3.194 - 0 - Sept $44.00 @.56 = 3.045 - 0 - Dec. $48.00 @.56 = 2.827 - 0 - March $50.00 @.58 = 2.843 - 0 -
The dollar-cost averaging investor now owns 247.953 shares of XYZ. The value at $50.00 a share = $12,397.65.
So, the lump-sum investor ends up right where he started, 200 shares of ABC worth $10,000, and the dollar-cost averaging investor ends up owning 247.953 shares of XYZ worth $12,397.65, along with the dividend income generated from owning those shares. Both had the same 'when' when they invested.
The dividend yield at 58 cents a quarter (.58 divided by $50.00 x 4 x 100 =), a 4.64% yearly dividend yield. Every quarter every dividend received from the company was higher than the previous dividend, no matter what the stock price was at the end of the quarter.
The dollar-cost averaging investor is receiving a dividend for the next quarter from XYZ (no matter what the stock price happens to be) of .58 X 247.953 shares = $143.81, and the next quarter (and every quarter thereafter) the dividend would be even higher if the company, at least, maintained their dividend.
If XYZ repeated the same performance history ($50.00 down to $36.00, back up to $50.00) for the next 3 years, and ABC did the same - the HOW you invest in the stock market makes all the difference in the world.
---
You have permission to this article either electronically or in print as long as the author bylines are included, with a live link, and the article is not changed in any way, (typos excluded). Please provide a courtesy e-mail to: charles@thestockopolyplan.com telling where the article was published.
Charles M. O'Melia is an individual investor with almost 40 years of experience and passion for the stock market. Author of the book 'The Stockopoly Plan', published by American-Book Publishing. For more excerpts from The Stockopoly Plan, please visit http://www.thestockopolyplan.com
For example, are you investing for capital appreciation or for income through dividend paying stocks? Or is the investment in the stock market for the combination of both capital appreciation and dividend income?
Are you investing through a Mutual fund(s) or selecting your own individual stocks?
Do you invest with a lump-sum dollar amount or dollar-cost average into your stock or Mutual fund positions (buying the same stock or Mutual fund at different prices over the years)?
Is your investment dollar spread too thin and are all of those dollars working for your ROI (return on investment)?
Do you pay commission fees to purchase a stock?
Do you pay load fees in your Mutual fund(s)? How much does your Mutual fund(s) charge you for management, operating and marketing fees (they are called 'hidden fees')?
'How' you invest in the stock market is more important than 'when' you invest in the stock market and 'how' you invest will determine your ROI.
When you invest in the stock market is after you devise a how-to plan that takes into consideration all of the factors above. Quite frankly, every cent of your investor dollar should benefit you and your family and no one else.
It is my opinion that all stock purchases should be made without commission fees (which is possible). That the investment in all stocks should be a long-term investment, and that every stock purchased should have a history of raising their dividend every year. And all dividends should be reinvested back into the company's shares (also commission free), until retirement.
By purchasing those companies that have a long-term history of raising their dividend each year (for example, Comerica ? 35 years, Proctor and Gamble ? 47 years, BB&T ? 32 years, GE ? 28 years, Atmos Energy - 17 years (they also provide a 3% discount on all shares purchased through dividend reinvestments), the 'HOW' you invest becomes automatic- you dollar-cost average into your holdings through the dividends provided by the companies every quarter.
The dividend is the one factor a company cannot 'fudge'.
The money has to be there to pay the shareholder. If a company can raise their dividend every year, the company MUST be doing something right! When a company has a long history of raising their dividend every year you in a sense eliminate risk, since a lower stock price for that company just means a higher dividend yield. If, for example, a stock purchased at $50.00 a share drops to $36.00 a share, the income provided by the dividend income accelerates, and your dividend reinvestment provides you a better dividend 'bang for your buck'.
There have been many up and downs in the stock market these past 47 years (I know, I've been in almost 40 of them) ? yet Proctor and Gamble has never failed to raise their dividend during those past 47 years.
Below is an example of two types of investors that have $10,000 to invest in the stock market. One is a lump-sum investor, the other a dollar-cost averaging investor. One investor doesn't care about dividends, the dollar-cost averaging investor does.
Each investor took a different 'HOW' to invest and both investors had the same 'WHEN' when they invested. Let's say they invested at the same time, each stock purchased at $50 dollars a share and every quarter the stock dropped $2.00 a share, till the stocks hit a bottom of $36.00, and then recovers back to $50.00.
The lump-sum investor bought the fictitious company ABC, which does not pay a dividend, and the dollar-cost averaging investor purchased the fictitious company XYZ, which pays a quarterly dividend of 50 cents a share (a 4.0% yearly dividend yield), and the company had a history of raising their dividend every March for the past 41 consecutive years. Both purchases were made in January.
The lump sum investor bought 200 shares of ABC at $50.00 a share, watched the stock drop to $36.00, then recover back to $50.00 and when all was said and done ended up right where he started with 200 shares of ABC worth $10,000.
The dollar-cost averaging investor purchased 100 shares of XYZ in January for $5,000.00, (the stock paying a quarterly 50 cent a share dividend for a 4.0 percent yearly dividend yield), and purchased $1,000.00 worth of more shares every quarter for the next 5 quarters. Each quarter the dividend from the company was also reinvested into more shares of stock. Each March the company raised its dividend 2 cents a share, marking 45 consecutive years of rising dividends.
All purchases were commission free.
January, 100 shares of XYZ @ 50.00 a share = $5,000
Date: Stock Price: Div. Purchases: Share Purchases:
March $48.00 @.52 = 1.083 $1,000 = 20.83 shares
June $46.00 @.52 = 1.378 $1,000 = 21.74 shares
Sept $44.00 @.52 = 1.714 $1,000 = 22.72 shares Dec. $42.00 @.52 = 2.098 $1,000 = 23.81 shares March $40.00 @.54 = 2.098 $1,000 = 25.00 shares
June $38.00 @.54 = 2.637 - 0 - Sept $36.00 @.54 = 3.169 - 0 - Dec. $38.00 @.54 = 3.393 - 0 - March $40.00 @.56 = 3.260 - 0 - June $42.00 @.56 = 3.194 - 0 - Sept $44.00 @.56 = 3.045 - 0 - Dec. $48.00 @.56 = 2.827 - 0 - March $50.00 @.58 = 2.843 - 0 -
The dollar-cost averaging investor now owns 247.953 shares of XYZ. The value at $50.00 a share = $12,397.65.
So, the lump-sum investor ends up right where he started, 200 shares of ABC worth $10,000, and the dollar-cost averaging investor ends up owning 247.953 shares of XYZ worth $12,397.65, along with the dividend income generated from owning those shares. Both had the same 'when' when they invested.
The dividend yield at 58 cents a quarter (.58 divided by $50.00 x 4 x 100 =), a 4.64% yearly dividend yield. Every quarter every dividend received from the company was higher than the previous dividend, no matter what the stock price was at the end of the quarter.
The dollar-cost averaging investor is receiving a dividend for the next quarter from XYZ (no matter what the stock price happens to be) of .58 X 247.953 shares = $143.81, and the next quarter (and every quarter thereafter) the dividend would be even higher if the company, at least, maintained their dividend.
If XYZ repeated the same performance history ($50.00 down to $36.00, back up to $50.00) for the next 3 years, and ABC did the same - the HOW you invest in the stock market makes all the difference in the world.
---
You have permission to this article either electronically or in print as long as the author bylines are included, with a live link, and the article is not changed in any way, (typos excluded). Please provide a courtesy e-mail to: charles@thestockopolyplan.com telling where the article was published.
Charles M. O'Melia is an individual investor with almost 40 years of experience and passion for the stock market. Author of the book 'The Stockopoly Plan', published by American-Book Publishing. For more excerpts from The Stockopoly Plan, please visit http://www.thestockopolyplan.com
VALUE INVESTING
By definition, value investing is the process of selecting stocks that trade for less than their intrinsic value. A value investor typically selects stocks with lower than average price-to-book or price-to-earning ratios. Of course, it is not nearly this simple. Value investing is the corner stone of long-term growth. Those who practice it survive the ups and downs of the market and are more likely to emerge wealthy than those who ride the market, in principle, due to the higher quality of the companies falling under the prerequisites of the value investor. Value investing is essentially concerned with getting the most profit at the lowest cost. The basis of value is profit. Value investing is an investment style which favors good stocks at great prices over great stocks at good prices. Value investor extraordinaire Warren Buffett has used this style to become a billionaire.
It's important to keep in mind that value investing is not concerned with how much the price of a stock has risen or fallen necessarily, but rather what is the "intrinsic" or inherent value of the stock, and is it currently trading below that price, i.e. at a discount to it's intrinsic value. The important point here is that when looking at stocks that are trading at or above their intrinsic value, the only hope for gaining value is based on future events, since the stock price already represents what the company is worth. However, when dealing with stocks that are undervalued, or available at a discount, unforeseen events are unimportant in that without any new earnings or additional profits, the shares are already "poised" to return to that inherent value which they have.
The question now, of course, is "why would stock prices not always reflect the true value of the company and the intrinsic value of its shares?" In short, value investors believe that share prices are frequently wrong as indicators of the underlying value of the company and its shares. The efficient market theory suggests that share prices always reflect all available information about a company, and value investors refute this with the idea that investment opportunities are created by disagreements between the actual stock prices, and the calculated intrinsic value of those stocks.
Finding Value Stocks
Value investing is based on the answers to two simple questions:
1. What is the actual value of this company?
2. Can its shares be purchased for less than the actual (intrinsic) value?
Clearly, the important point here is, "how is the intrinsic value accurately determined?" An important point is that companies may be undervalued and overvalued regardless of what the overall markets are doing. Every investor should be aware of and prepared for the inherent market volatility, and the simple fact that stock prices will fluctuate, sometimes quite significantly.
Benjamin Graham has often said that if investors cannot be prepared to accept a 50% decline in value without becoming riddled with panic, then investing may not be for them...or rather, successful investing, as it often takes significant losses in a particular security before gains are made, due to the idea that value investors do not try to time the market, and are focused on the underlying fundamentals of the companies. Furthermore, the quality of the companies targeted by the value investors' screening methods should be, over the long term, less volatile and susceptible to market "panic" than the average stock.
This is also a two way road of sorts. On one hand, there is no sense in worrying about depressions, upturns, and recoveries due to the underlying quality of the value investments. On the other hand, investments should only be made in companies which can flourish and do well in any market environment. Doing solid investment research and making equally solid investment decisions will take investors much further than trying to forecast the markets.
How Many Different Stocks?
In terms of diversification, there are many discrepancies over exactly how many different stocks a solid portfolio should be made up of. My personal view is that there should not be as many stock as normally make up a mutual fund. Many will disagree with this, but what it's worth, I think that owning a portfolio of 100, 200, or even more companies not only serves to limit risk, but it really limits the possibility for reward as well. Also, as Warren Buffett has said many times, the more companies you own, the less you know about each one.
As I write this, there are 42 stocks in our recommended portfolio. This number may very well grow in the coming months, as it may decrease in number, but one thing to keep in mind is, out of the thousands of companies available for purchase, only a very small percentage meet the stringent requirements of the diligent value investor. This is both a blessing and a curse. Very often, there is simply nothing to buy, and this is fine. The trap to avoid falling into is to lower your requirements for a stock when there simply isn't anything meeting the normal requirements. This is how many an investor has fallen into making poor investment decisions, putting money into companies not really adequate for their respective portfolio, and it will certainly have a long term effect on gains.
David Pakman has been writing about politics and investing for years now, and runs the websites www.heartheissues.com and http://pakman.thevividedge.com
It's important to keep in mind that value investing is not concerned with how much the price of a stock has risen or fallen necessarily, but rather what is the "intrinsic" or inherent value of the stock, and is it currently trading below that price, i.e. at a discount to it's intrinsic value. The important point here is that when looking at stocks that are trading at or above their intrinsic value, the only hope for gaining value is based on future events, since the stock price already represents what the company is worth. However, when dealing with stocks that are undervalued, or available at a discount, unforeseen events are unimportant in that without any new earnings or additional profits, the shares are already "poised" to return to that inherent value which they have.
The question now, of course, is "why would stock prices not always reflect the true value of the company and the intrinsic value of its shares?" In short, value investors believe that share prices are frequently wrong as indicators of the underlying value of the company and its shares. The efficient market theory suggests that share prices always reflect all available information about a company, and value investors refute this with the idea that investment opportunities are created by disagreements between the actual stock prices, and the calculated intrinsic value of those stocks.
Finding Value Stocks
Value investing is based on the answers to two simple questions:
1. What is the actual value of this company?
2. Can its shares be purchased for less than the actual (intrinsic) value?
Clearly, the important point here is, "how is the intrinsic value accurately determined?" An important point is that companies may be undervalued and overvalued regardless of what the overall markets are doing. Every investor should be aware of and prepared for the inherent market volatility, and the simple fact that stock prices will fluctuate, sometimes quite significantly.
Benjamin Graham has often said that if investors cannot be prepared to accept a 50% decline in value without becoming riddled with panic, then investing may not be for them...or rather, successful investing, as it often takes significant losses in a particular security before gains are made, due to the idea that value investors do not try to time the market, and are focused on the underlying fundamentals of the companies. Furthermore, the quality of the companies targeted by the value investors' screening methods should be, over the long term, less volatile and susceptible to market "panic" than the average stock.
This is also a two way road of sorts. On one hand, there is no sense in worrying about depressions, upturns, and recoveries due to the underlying quality of the value investments. On the other hand, investments should only be made in companies which can flourish and do well in any market environment. Doing solid investment research and making equally solid investment decisions will take investors much further than trying to forecast the markets.
How Many Different Stocks?
In terms of diversification, there are many discrepancies over exactly how many different stocks a solid portfolio should be made up of. My personal view is that there should not be as many stock as normally make up a mutual fund. Many will disagree with this, but what it's worth, I think that owning a portfolio of 100, 200, or even more companies not only serves to limit risk, but it really limits the possibility for reward as well. Also, as Warren Buffett has said many times, the more companies you own, the less you know about each one.
As I write this, there are 42 stocks in our recommended portfolio. This number may very well grow in the coming months, as it may decrease in number, but one thing to keep in mind is, out of the thousands of companies available for purchase, only a very small percentage meet the stringent requirements of the diligent value investor. This is both a blessing and a curse. Very often, there is simply nothing to buy, and this is fine. The trap to avoid falling into is to lower your requirements for a stock when there simply isn't anything meeting the normal requirements. This is how many an investor has fallen into making poor investment decisions, putting money into companies not really adequate for their respective portfolio, and it will certainly have a long term effect on gains.
David Pakman has been writing about politics and investing for years now, and runs the websites www.heartheissues.com and http://pakman.thevividedge.com
EVALUATING A MONEY MANAGER
Scams and frauds are designed to take your money through false promises and phony claims. Money management is supposedly designed to increase your net worth. Sometimes these two worlds meet and the results are not in your favor, i.e., you have a considerable decrease in net worth.
The information in this article won't keep future money managers honest but it will help you find the one who is right for your situation. There are four criteria you must consider before you give your money to anyone to manage.
1) Philosophy-- This is the thought theology used by the money manager to make your money grow. In other words, does (s)he focus on stocks, options, mutual funds, annuities, a blend of investment vehicles, etc.? Does this philosophy coincide with your risk tolerance? If stocks are too risky, a manager concentrating in that arena isn't for you. The philosophy also points you to their performance.
2) Performance-- We all know the markets are not stagnant. They go up, they go down. No investment manager can predict the market with absolute certainty. But, they should perform well, or even above average, in their specialty. For example, a stock focused money manager in today's market environment should have performance numbers that would make even Warren Buffet take notice. You want as long a performance record as possbile. To be fair, one market cycle should give you a decent indication of the manager's performance in his/her area(s) of expertise.
3) Process-- This is the means the manager uses to select securities for the portfolios. For example, does (s)he relyonly on in house research or does (s)he incorporate researchfrom outside sources? If so, who are they and on what frequency are they used?
4) Personnel-- Besides wanting to know the manager's experience, you'd be wise to learn all you could about the folks working in the office. Who actually manages the portfolio? His/her experience? How long has (s)he been in business? Who will manage your account when (s)he is out of the office, on vacation, on business?
Some people would say cost is one of the criteria. I say it is, but to a lesser degree. In over 30 years in this business, I can guarantee that paying the highest commission did not necessarily result in receiving the best advice. Paying the lowest commission did not necessarily result in receiving the worst advice.
Cost comes in the form of fees and commissions. ALL money managers charge. Cost, initially, should not be in your criteria because it often becomes the ONLY determining factor. That will skewer your thinking and could result in not having awinning team working for you. Make the above four parameters yourprimary criteria and cost will take care of itself.
How? You will be quoted a charge. If you are not comfortable with that price, negotiate. All fees and commissions are negotiable. If the manager refuses to negotiate, then and only then, make cost a member of the criteria team.
This article won't solve all of the money management problems or costs associated therewith. However, it'll at least start you thinking in the right direction and keepyour money in your pocket until you are ready to hand it over.
The information in this article won't keep future money managers honest but it will help you find the one who is right for your situation. There are four criteria you must consider before you give your money to anyone to manage.
1) Philosophy-- This is the thought theology used by the money manager to make your money grow. In other words, does (s)he focus on stocks, options, mutual funds, annuities, a blend of investment vehicles, etc.? Does this philosophy coincide with your risk tolerance? If stocks are too risky, a manager concentrating in that arena isn't for you. The philosophy also points you to their performance.
2) Performance-- We all know the markets are not stagnant. They go up, they go down. No investment manager can predict the market with absolute certainty. But, they should perform well, or even above average, in their specialty. For example, a stock focused money manager in today's market environment should have performance numbers that would make even Warren Buffet take notice. You want as long a performance record as possbile. To be fair, one market cycle should give you a decent indication of the manager's performance in his/her area(s) of expertise.
3) Process-- This is the means the manager uses to select securities for the portfolios. For example, does (s)he relyonly on in house research or does (s)he incorporate researchfrom outside sources? If so, who are they and on what frequency are they used?
4) Personnel-- Besides wanting to know the manager's experience, you'd be wise to learn all you could about the folks working in the office. Who actually manages the portfolio? His/her experience? How long has (s)he been in business? Who will manage your account when (s)he is out of the office, on vacation, on business?
Some people would say cost is one of the criteria. I say it is, but to a lesser degree. In over 30 years in this business, I can guarantee that paying the highest commission did not necessarily result in receiving the best advice. Paying the lowest commission did not necessarily result in receiving the worst advice.
Cost comes in the form of fees and commissions. ALL money managers charge. Cost, initially, should not be in your criteria because it often becomes the ONLY determining factor. That will skewer your thinking and could result in not having awinning team working for you. Make the above four parameters yourprimary criteria and cost will take care of itself.
How? You will be quoted a charge. If you are not comfortable with that price, negotiate. All fees and commissions are negotiable. If the manager refuses to negotiate, then and only then, make cost a member of the criteria team.
This article won't solve all of the money management problems or costs associated therewith. However, it'll at least start you thinking in the right direction and keepyour money in your pocket until you are ready to hand it over.
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
SELL MY HOUSE FAST
What are the options for anyone looking to sell their property?
Traditional Estate Agent route - expensive and VERY slow Online Estate Agent - less expensive but still slow Property auction - fast but price not guaranteed to reach reserve, still have to pay auction house fees and VAT Sell to a buyer who specializes in purchasing property for cash - slightly below market value but VERY fast DIY private house sale - a fast option that could save you £000s So, how do you go about selling your house privately?
This might sound like a scary alternative but with the advent of the Internet it really is a viable alternative to the snail-like High Street option and is gathering popularity amongst house-sellers fed up of being charged £000s for selling their properties. We often forget that Estate Agents are unregulated salesmen with no professional valuation training other than an inside knowledge of what other properties on their books have sold for. The only true professionals involved in the house buying and selling process are the surveyor and conveyancing solicitor.
There are just 4 easy steps to making a private house sale:
PRICING.
There are websites available where you can check the actual selling prices of properties in your area (rather than the over-inflated estimates dreamt up by untrained agents). These will give you a much more accurate idea of what your property is worth. Depending on how quickly you wish to sell should influence how much above or below this figure you are willing to set your price at. Bear in mind that a potential buyer may wish to negotiate you down on the advertised price so don’t pitch it at your absolute minimum, as this will leave you no room for manoeuvre.
ADVERTISING.
Online advertising fees are much more reasonable than those of commission-based Estate Agents and websites that advertise your property have clear itemised lists of added extras you can purchase if you so desire but these are not always necessary.
HIP.
Any property sold on the open market must have a Home Information Pack, which will cost around £350 and can be commissioned independently.
DETAILS.
All you need is a digital camera and a reasonable eye for a good photo. You need around 6-10 decent pictures of the front of the house, garden and key rooms plus accurate internal measurements. For a small additional cost, online property advertising sites will also provide a customised For Sale sign, as these are great for generating interest from local buyers. You can get your property details online in a fraction of the time it takes an Estate Agent to start advertising. If you really don’t feel up to trying this alternative why not consider a quick cash sale to a company that specializes in this market. They can complete within 4 weeks of your initial enquiry and provide the peace of mind of a guaranteed property sale (no pulling out at the last moment and no broken chains). When you consider that Estate Agents over-value properties by between 5%-15% and you may have to reduce your price to slightly below the surveyors valuation to secure a quick sale this option doesn’t sound quite as bad as you might first imagine. If you also factor in the benefits of a free valuation by an independent surveyor, free legal fees and no requirement for a Home Information Pack plus completion in around 4 weeks Sell-My-House-Fast could be THE quick and economical solution to your current financial difficulties.
Traditional Estate Agent route - expensive and VERY slow Online Estate Agent - less expensive but still slow Property auction - fast but price not guaranteed to reach reserve, still have to pay auction house fees and VAT Sell to a buyer who specializes in purchasing property for cash - slightly below market value but VERY fast DIY private house sale - a fast option that could save you £000s So, how do you go about selling your house privately?
This might sound like a scary alternative but with the advent of the Internet it really is a viable alternative to the snail-like High Street option and is gathering popularity amongst house-sellers fed up of being charged £000s for selling their properties. We often forget that Estate Agents are unregulated salesmen with no professional valuation training other than an inside knowledge of what other properties on their books have sold for. The only true professionals involved in the house buying and selling process are the surveyor and conveyancing solicitor.
There are just 4 easy steps to making a private house sale:
PRICING.
There are websites available where you can check the actual selling prices of properties in your area (rather than the over-inflated estimates dreamt up by untrained agents). These will give you a much more accurate idea of what your property is worth. Depending on how quickly you wish to sell should influence how much above or below this figure you are willing to set your price at. Bear in mind that a potential buyer may wish to negotiate you down on the advertised price so don’t pitch it at your absolute minimum, as this will leave you no room for manoeuvre.
ADVERTISING.
Online advertising fees are much more reasonable than those of commission-based Estate Agents and websites that advertise your property have clear itemised lists of added extras you can purchase if you so desire but these are not always necessary.
HIP.
Any property sold on the open market must have a Home Information Pack, which will cost around £350 and can be commissioned independently.
DETAILS.
All you need is a digital camera and a reasonable eye for a good photo. You need around 6-10 decent pictures of the front of the house, garden and key rooms plus accurate internal measurements. For a small additional cost, online property advertising sites will also provide a customised For Sale sign, as these are great for generating interest from local buyers. You can get your property details online in a fraction of the time it takes an Estate Agent to start advertising. If you really don’t feel up to trying this alternative why not consider a quick cash sale to a company that specializes in this market. They can complete within 4 weeks of your initial enquiry and provide the peace of mind of a guaranteed property sale (no pulling out at the last moment and no broken chains). When you consider that Estate Agents over-value properties by between 5%-15% and you may have to reduce your price to slightly below the surveyors valuation to secure a quick sale this option doesn’t sound quite as bad as you might first imagine. If you also factor in the benefits of a free valuation by an independent surveyor, free legal fees and no requirement for a Home Information Pack plus completion in around 4 weeks Sell-My-House-Fast could be THE quick and economical solution to your current financial difficulties.
STOCK MARKET STRATEGIES DECISIONS
Initiate TradeThe trading strategy begins with leading off by placing a position in anticipation that the possible Head & Shoulders Bottom will be activated. This is a vertical bull call spread. Lower strike calls are purchased and higher strike calls are sold. An approximate upside measuring objective can be obtained at this time. This would imply placing a vertical bull call spread with the highest strike at the measuring objective. It is suggested, however, that the closest out-of the-money calls be purchased and the calls one strike higher be sold. This is for liquidity considerations in anticipation of follow-up action when the neckline is penetrated.
The next lower level in the decision tree shows the two most distinct price moves that could occur a rally or a sell off. The market also could move sideways or experience myriad other price gyrations.
Valid Breakout
A close above the neckline on a noticeable increase in volume officially activates the H&S Bottom, This allows the technician to construct the specific upside measuring objective. It is also the time to make any trading strategy more directionally aggressive. For a vertical bull call spread, one-half of the losing leg should be liquidated. This means buying back covering one half of the higher strike calls that were sold short.
It is of almost importance for any trader to have a defined risk parameter. For classical bar chartists, this is usually straightforward. Assuming there was no possible second left shoulder on the chart, the technician would not expect the low of the right shoulder to be taken out. Thus, the bullish outlook would not seriously deteriorate unless a sell off to below the right shoulder occurred. Stop-loss orders in the options themselves are not usually recommended. A mental stop in the underlying instrument is the preferred approach. This means, of course, that a trader must possess the discipline to exit from a losing options position if the technical aspects of the underlying instrument begin breaking down.
Failure
Any Head & Shoulders formation is destroyed when the extreme of the head is violated, even intra day. Any bull strategy must be abandoned. The entire vertical bull spread should be liquidated.
Making a new price low affirms that the direction of the major trend remains downward. It does not automatically create a specific downside measuring objective. Therefore, it is never advisable to liquidate the long calls and stay with the short calls of the vertical spread. The position would turn into one of unlimited risk. It is far better to exit from a losing position and look for another more clear-cut technical situation.
Objective Met
When any classical bar charting measuring objective is met, it is prudent to realize at least some profits. In the case of the Head & Shoulders formation, profits on one-quarter to one-half of the position should be taken. Why only 25 percent? An H&S measuring objective is a minimum target. Although no specific maximum objective can be calculated, quotes often move far beyond the minimum objective. A trader should try to follow the old adage of cutting losses and letting profits run. This is what is being done in removing only a portion of the winning trade. The decision to exit from the remaining open positions should be based on usual support/resistance and volume/open interest considerations.
Fullback
In the long run, the most optimal path through the decision tree would flow. A price sell-off on declining volume back to the neckline would prompt removal of any remaining bearish positions. All short calls should be covered. The resulting position is simply long call options. Note that this is the technical situation in the options strategy matrix that results in the long call strategy.
Objective Met
A trader should begin to take partial profits when an objective is achieved. Removing 25 to 50 percent of all bullish positions is suggested. But this is, as economists are wont to say, all other things beingequal. This is not usually the case. For example, if the underlying instrument is a futures contract, open interest changes become important. In a futures contract, open interest declining as a price target is being achieved is a warning signal. The percentage of profitable positions removed would move up to 75 percent.
In general, protective mental sell-stops in the underlying instrument would follow the market up moving in fits and starts depending upon where support formed on the chart.
Symmetry Destroyed
If quotes move below the right shoulder low, the symmetry of the Head & Shoulders Bottom is destroyed. This does not automatically invalidate the pattern. The pattern is destroyed if the low of the head is taken out. But a trader must begin to mitigate the loss of the long call position. Removing approximately one-half of the long calls would accomplish this.
Another Chance
Since the Head & Shoulders Bottom remains valid, the original upside measuring objective is intact. A bullish stance should be held unless the low of this second pullback is taken out. The decision to add to bull positions is tricky. A close above the neckline once again would certainly revive the bullish look of the chart. Aggressive traders can then look to increase a bullish bias possibly with outright longs in the underlying instrument rather than long calls.
Pattern DestroyedThe worst path through the decision tree culminates, the H&S pattern has failed. Although the H&S formation is usually highly reliable, it does fail in up to 20 percent of the cases. If enough premium is remaining in the long call options, they can be liquidated. If so little premium remains, they can be held rather than paying commissions. May be the trader will get lucky and a price rally will occur. But a trader who uses the words luck or hope is in a terrible situation.
The next lower level in the decision tree shows the two most distinct price moves that could occur a rally or a sell off. The market also could move sideways or experience myriad other price gyrations.
Valid Breakout
A close above the neckline on a noticeable increase in volume officially activates the H&S Bottom, This allows the technician to construct the specific upside measuring objective. It is also the time to make any trading strategy more directionally aggressive. For a vertical bull call spread, one-half of the losing leg should be liquidated. This means buying back covering one half of the higher strike calls that were sold short.
It is of almost importance for any trader to have a defined risk parameter. For classical bar chartists, this is usually straightforward. Assuming there was no possible second left shoulder on the chart, the technician would not expect the low of the right shoulder to be taken out. Thus, the bullish outlook would not seriously deteriorate unless a sell off to below the right shoulder occurred. Stop-loss orders in the options themselves are not usually recommended. A mental stop in the underlying instrument is the preferred approach. This means, of course, that a trader must possess the discipline to exit from a losing options position if the technical aspects of the underlying instrument begin breaking down.
Failure
Any Head & Shoulders formation is destroyed when the extreme of the head is violated, even intra day. Any bull strategy must be abandoned. The entire vertical bull spread should be liquidated.
Making a new price low affirms that the direction of the major trend remains downward. It does not automatically create a specific downside measuring objective. Therefore, it is never advisable to liquidate the long calls and stay with the short calls of the vertical spread. The position would turn into one of unlimited risk. It is far better to exit from a losing position and look for another more clear-cut technical situation.
Objective Met
When any classical bar charting measuring objective is met, it is prudent to realize at least some profits. In the case of the Head & Shoulders formation, profits on one-quarter to one-half of the position should be taken. Why only 25 percent? An H&S measuring objective is a minimum target. Although no specific maximum objective can be calculated, quotes often move far beyond the minimum objective. A trader should try to follow the old adage of cutting losses and letting profits run. This is what is being done in removing only a portion of the winning trade. The decision to exit from the remaining open positions should be based on usual support/resistance and volume/open interest considerations.
Fullback
In the long run, the most optimal path through the decision tree would flow. A price sell-off on declining volume back to the neckline would prompt removal of any remaining bearish positions. All short calls should be covered. The resulting position is simply long call options. Note that this is the technical situation in the options strategy matrix that results in the long call strategy.
Objective Met
A trader should begin to take partial profits when an objective is achieved. Removing 25 to 50 percent of all bullish positions is suggested. But this is, as economists are wont to say, all other things beingequal. This is not usually the case. For example, if the underlying instrument is a futures contract, open interest changes become important. In a futures contract, open interest declining as a price target is being achieved is a warning signal. The percentage of profitable positions removed would move up to 75 percent.
In general, protective mental sell-stops in the underlying instrument would follow the market up moving in fits and starts depending upon where support formed on the chart.
Symmetry Destroyed
If quotes move below the right shoulder low, the symmetry of the Head & Shoulders Bottom is destroyed. This does not automatically invalidate the pattern. The pattern is destroyed if the low of the head is taken out. But a trader must begin to mitigate the loss of the long call position. Removing approximately one-half of the long calls would accomplish this.
Another Chance
Since the Head & Shoulders Bottom remains valid, the original upside measuring objective is intact. A bullish stance should be held unless the low of this second pullback is taken out. The decision to add to bull positions is tricky. A close above the neckline once again would certainly revive the bullish look of the chart. Aggressive traders can then look to increase a bullish bias possibly with outright longs in the underlying instrument rather than long calls.
Pattern DestroyedThe worst path through the decision tree culminates, the H&S pattern has failed. Although the H&S formation is usually highly reliable, it does fail in up to 20 percent of the cases. If enough premium is remaining in the long call options, they can be liquidated. If so little premium remains, they can be held rather than paying commissions. May be the trader will get lucky and a price rally will occur. But a trader who uses the words luck or hope is in a terrible situation.
Thursday, February 21, 2008
EVERYTHING THAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HEALTH INSURANCE
A Health Insurance refers to the policy which is designed in such a way that it helps and protects you and your family from high expenditure on health coverage and other medical care service. Usually a monthly premium is paid, which is taken to be a co-payment for the services that you get. The health insurance premium can be paid to the insurer on monthly, quarterly and annual basis. Deductibles refer to the amounts which are paid for the covered services, within a period of time, according to the terms and conditions with your insurance agent. There are numerous members who have higher deductibles and these people need to pay their first installment in thousands of dollars, before the insurance company begins to make the payments. A co-payment refers to the amount which is paid by the member along with the physicians' visit and also with the doctors and surgical care.
Health Insurance can be separated into two types, such as the managed care plans and indemnity plans. Managed care plans comprise different plans such as preferred provider organizations, the health maintenance organizations and the point of service plans. If you take indemnity plans, you are given the liberty to decide your own medical doctor as well as spend for your medical costs. Different payment options are given for such expenditures, and the expense can be made totality or in specified amounts for a day. There are many managed care plans which will offer you with wider coverage which is related to an arrangement which is made between the selected network and the insurer which will help you to organize all your health care, which will also aid you to get referred to various specialists in the network. The health insurance policy which is subsidized by the employer is taken as the most reasonably priced and in cases where the employer is not given the facility of health insurance, there has be an individual health insurance policy.
In cases of good health insurance, there are many types of coverages. For instance, there is one for hospital expenditure which will help you to give payments for your board, room and other incidental expenses, if you are hospitalized. There are various surgical expenses insurance which will help you to give coverage for the surgeon's charge and other related expenses. There is a physician's expense insurance which will aid you to spend for the visits to different doctors and hospitals. There is also a major kind of medical insurance which offers an ample coverage and maximum benefit policy, which is specifically designed to give you with high range benefits and protects against several catastrophic losses. Before choosing any kind of health insurance facilities, you need to consider the amount of affordability of the hospital care and the doctor's visit.
Health Insurance can be separated into two types, such as the managed care plans and indemnity plans. Managed care plans comprise different plans such as preferred provider organizations, the health maintenance organizations and the point of service plans. If you take indemnity plans, you are given the liberty to decide your own medical doctor as well as spend for your medical costs. Different payment options are given for such expenditures, and the expense can be made totality or in specified amounts for a day. There are many managed care plans which will offer you with wider coverage which is related to an arrangement which is made between the selected network and the insurer which will help you to organize all your health care, which will also aid you to get referred to various specialists in the network. The health insurance policy which is subsidized by the employer is taken as the most reasonably priced and in cases where the employer is not given the facility of health insurance, there has be an individual health insurance policy.
In cases of good health insurance, there are many types of coverages. For instance, there is one for hospital expenditure which will help you to give payments for your board, room and other incidental expenses, if you are hospitalized. There are various surgical expenses insurance which will help you to give coverage for the surgeon's charge and other related expenses. There is a physician's expense insurance which will aid you to spend for the visits to different doctors and hospitals. There is also a major kind of medical insurance which offers an ample coverage and maximum benefit policy, which is specifically designed to give you with high range benefits and protects against several catastrophic losses. Before choosing any kind of health insurance facilities, you need to consider the amount of affordability of the hospital care and the doctor's visit.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
CAR INSURANCE OVER THE PHONE OR WEB?
I don't like computers - another great waste of time as far as I'm concerned, though I am forced to use one a couple of hours a week for work - but spotting my wife's laptop on the kitchen, I figured I could at least go online and try out one of those sites where they do all the searching around for the best quotes.
But how much money was I actually going to save? I could have given in and simply renewed with my existing insurer, regardless of the fact that they'd seem to have ignored my five years of no claims and spotless driving record and lovingly given me practically the same price as last year.
Sorting out car insurance was not the best, most interesting way to use up a morning off work, so I allowed my dislike of computers to be overridden by a sheer necessity to alleviate this increasing boredom and disinterest.
The clock was ticking and there were a range of more appealing jobs to do around the house, like mending the fence, oiling that squeaky living room door, or even chucking the dog's blanket in the wash.
I looked at the computer again. Feeling my arm still aching from cradling the phone while struggling around with my driving documents and scribbling numbers and names down on scraps of paper I knew I was going to have to make a rational decision over my now apparent irrational dislike of modern technology.
So I made a cup of tea. Then refreshed, and with a combination of mock enthusiasm and a desire to get on with the rest of the morning, I turned on the computer and found a web site that, without me barely realising, had found me a pretty good deal on car insurance.
And I saved some money. So much in fact that for spending 10 minutes online filling out a simple and easy to use form, it was worth more to renew my car insurance this way than it was to have gone into work and earn money!
Of course, I put the laptop back in exactly the same place as my wife had left it. I'm always telling her they're a waste of time, though maybe know I'll have to admit that for some things, they're pretty useful. Though of course, I'd rather wash the dog any day of the week.
But how much money was I actually going to save? I could have given in and simply renewed with my existing insurer, regardless of the fact that they'd seem to have ignored my five years of no claims and spotless driving record and lovingly given me practically the same price as last year.
Sorting out car insurance was not the best, most interesting way to use up a morning off work, so I allowed my dislike of computers to be overridden by a sheer necessity to alleviate this increasing boredom and disinterest.
The clock was ticking and there were a range of more appealing jobs to do around the house, like mending the fence, oiling that squeaky living room door, or even chucking the dog's blanket in the wash.
I looked at the computer again. Feeling my arm still aching from cradling the phone while struggling around with my driving documents and scribbling numbers and names down on scraps of paper I knew I was going to have to make a rational decision over my now apparent irrational dislike of modern technology.
So I made a cup of tea. Then refreshed, and with a combination of mock enthusiasm and a desire to get on with the rest of the morning, I turned on the computer and found a web site that, without me barely realising, had found me a pretty good deal on car insurance.
And I saved some money. So much in fact that for spending 10 minutes online filling out a simple and easy to use form, it was worth more to renew my car insurance this way than it was to have gone into work and earn money!
Of course, I put the laptop back in exactly the same place as my wife had left it. I'm always telling her they're a waste of time, though maybe know I'll have to admit that for some things, they're pretty useful. Though of course, I'd rather wash the dog any day of the week.
GETTING THE LOWEST CAR INSURANCE QUOTE
Finding the lowest car insurance quote is something that most people do not take the time to do. I have a hard time understanding this, because many of these people are the same ones who will drive all the way across town to save a penny a gallon for gas or will buy 15 cases of mustard because they save 50 cents. But while they are saving nickels and dimes, the dollars are racing out the door because they are not paying attention to their car insurance.
I have no beef with bargain hunters and commend them for their perseverance. But at the same time, it only makes good common sense that if you are going to get the best prices on things, be sure to include a big ticket item such as your auto insurance. Sure it takes more effort to understand what you are comparing, but at the end of the day it makes a huge amount of financial sense.
If you are like most people, you simply renew your auto insurance every year without getting a new quote, even from the same company. It's the easiest way to do it, but remember that easy is not the same as cost effective. Car insurance rates are changing all the time, and if you don't spend the time to comparison shop, chances are better than excellent that you are paying more than you need to.
I am not saying that your current car insurance company is ripping you off. The truth of the matter is that they might be offering you the best deal available for your particular driving habits and situation. But the keyword here is "might", and if you don't do any comparison shopping, you'll never know that, will you?
One classic example is one of the most costly coverages you can have on your car, which is collision insurance. When your car was new, your finance company required you to carry collision insurance. But if your car is paid off, did you know that you can legally DROP the collision coverage? Or if your collision deductible is $100, you are paying about three to four times more for it compared to having a collision deductible set at $1000.What are your coverage limits? As an example, looking at the personal liability coverage that almost all states require you to have, if the policy limit is set at $25,000 that is barely going to cover anything in today's lawsuit-happy world and you are really not protecting yourself with that level of coverage limit.
A more reasonable limit that would truly protect you would be something like $250,000. Yes it will cost more, but there is no sense in paying for something that is going to provide inadequate protection if you need to file a claim.Get car insurance quotes from various companies to compare rates and programs, and make sure you are comparing apples to apples in terms of deductibles and coverage limits. You are also encouraged to get an online car insurance quote to see what can be offered there. Frequently these companies can offer extremely aggressive rates, and you might be pleasantly surprised to find out how much you can save.
There is no cost to get an online quote, but you cannot really compare quotes if you don't get one.Do your comparison shopping, just as you would for any other major purchase, to make sure you are getting the most value for the money you are spending. Don't merely renew your existing policy every year just because it is easy.
I have no beef with bargain hunters and commend them for their perseverance. But at the same time, it only makes good common sense that if you are going to get the best prices on things, be sure to include a big ticket item such as your auto insurance. Sure it takes more effort to understand what you are comparing, but at the end of the day it makes a huge amount of financial sense.
If you are like most people, you simply renew your auto insurance every year without getting a new quote, even from the same company. It's the easiest way to do it, but remember that easy is not the same as cost effective. Car insurance rates are changing all the time, and if you don't spend the time to comparison shop, chances are better than excellent that you are paying more than you need to.
I am not saying that your current car insurance company is ripping you off. The truth of the matter is that they might be offering you the best deal available for your particular driving habits and situation. But the keyword here is "might", and if you don't do any comparison shopping, you'll never know that, will you?
One classic example is one of the most costly coverages you can have on your car, which is collision insurance. When your car was new, your finance company required you to carry collision insurance. But if your car is paid off, did you know that you can legally DROP the collision coverage? Or if your collision deductible is $100, you are paying about three to four times more for it compared to having a collision deductible set at $1000.What are your coverage limits? As an example, looking at the personal liability coverage that almost all states require you to have, if the policy limit is set at $25,000 that is barely going to cover anything in today's lawsuit-happy world and you are really not protecting yourself with that level of coverage limit.
A more reasonable limit that would truly protect you would be something like $250,000. Yes it will cost more, but there is no sense in paying for something that is going to provide inadequate protection if you need to file a claim.Get car insurance quotes from various companies to compare rates and programs, and make sure you are comparing apples to apples in terms of deductibles and coverage limits. You are also encouraged to get an online car insurance quote to see what can be offered there. Frequently these companies can offer extremely aggressive rates, and you might be pleasantly surprised to find out how much you can save.
There is no cost to get an online quote, but you cannot really compare quotes if you don't get one.Do your comparison shopping, just as you would for any other major purchase, to make sure you are getting the most value for the money you are spending. Don't merely renew your existing policy every year just because it is easy.